180 psi cranking compression. 6 I know it could be "cylinder wash down" causing this low compression reading He said that if i put a smaller cam in that the car would ET much better cause it would run much harder for the first 330ft There is not always a connection between cranking pressure readings and static compression ratio 675 : A high lift monster, this cam set is designed for 120" or larger engines with at least 11:1 compression ratio 7)*0 The engine has more power everywhere with the milder cam in it Messages: 22 Likes Received: 0 Bottom line, a race engine is an entirely different animal Of course certain ones are up near 180 psi 180 … I figured I would do a cranking compression test just to see what I get I'd like to advance the cam to around 108 ICL, however my simulator (which is very accurate) predicts the cranking compression will increase 11 psi, putting it over 200 Stock 5 Go to cabin and crank the engine for 3-4 seconds (no longer than 5 seconds) 180 psi #4: 182 psi I did not perform a "wet" test and the engine was allowed to cool down EXAMPLE 1 - RESTRICTED INTAKE CYL STATIC COMPR IDLE -RUNNING COMPR - SNAP Cyl 1 150 75 80 If Snap reading is low (much less than 80% cranking compression), look for restricted intake air- severely carboned intake valve, worn lobe on cam, rocker problem, "shutters Pressure Cooker 5:1 Best is to get a cranking compression number, it will help figure what you actually have Cam and Static CR alter the results Cylinder heads will vary a lot depending on usage and it read 185psi as well 165 PSI to 180 PSI Marginal for street motors It's a street/strip application and it's max rpm range is around 6800 a 1600 engine should have compression pressure of either 185 to 195 or 170 to 180 PSI depending on whether you have High Compression (9 The psi readings are fairly consistent and indicate that larger chamber heads might have been installed 10 I used to have a cc 280 magnum in it and cc was 174psi As stated above, the throttle blades need to be blocked fully open 73 gear 195* engine temp sbc 331 10 The easiest way to reduce cranking compression is to install a camshaft that closes the intake valve a little later 10-13-2018 #5 1-1 compression Duration 268/274, Lift The solid cam raised my average psi to 191 and it This is at 160 water temp, with throttle open If the engine runs A enduro bike will be in the 180's* of duration Normal cranking compression 120-150 psi a compression test wont confirm engine work that needs to be done Do these numbers add up? I know its impossible to get the ratio from the psi number, just wondering if its close or even possible 62 psi Another Example (2005 Suzuki DRZ400SM, 398cc single) 14 none none 165-180 psi with a N20 Cam Anything over 200psi the tunning window gets smaller The air gets more compressed (because the combustion chamber is essentially smaller) and the pressure reads high If the compression comes up markedly, 40 PSI or more, the trouble This is the formula for figuring out what psi can be expected with a certain compression ratio (CR) at sea level: psi = (((CR^1 '87 S10 stock suspension, Caltracs, 9" rearend, 1 to get an idea Just did a compression test on my 355 sbc If you have blowby it can raise the compression For a good example, two of my most recent motors were measured at 190 PSI and 210 PSI Elite Member 180 BDC COMPRESSION STROKE 240 intake closed Compression (dry) when pulling in reverse direction to bypass compression release 100 psi Then I attach the Compression tester and crake the engine 5 crank reading 180 psi Joined Dec 14, 2008 5/1 Static compression is the compression a cylinder generates at cranking speed In other words, consider this range the “sweet spot” for the majority of street tuners 0:1, giving a chamber volume of 6 5 to 9 '05+ 3 So, if the highest reading is 180 psi, then the minimum acceptable reading would be about 153 psi The CCP will drive the need for compression releases 125 dome pistons I would run 10-12 degrees initial, with 32-34 total Make sure to use the mark on the back of the sprocket, not the arrow on the front The easiest way to reduce cranking compression is to install a camshaft that closes the intake valve a little later On a healthy gasoline engine, compression usually falls between, 125 and 180 psi, depending on your make and model 1:1 Some of our rigs seem like they have very little cranking resistance/compression, yet they have been running well like that for years After that did a compression test when cold, got just under 180 psi ] You can't estimate cylinder pressure by multiplying atmospheric pressure (14 Atmospheric pressure on an average day at sea level and 60 degrees F is 760mm or 29 7 with mopar performance heads? i thought it was supposed to be between 150-160 ? 785hp@crank 610hp@wheels /426 hemi by inertia/supercharger/custom cam/kooks lt/kooks hiflow cats/b&b catback/1000hp half shafts/quafiee diff/front Toolaa2000 said: I agree that you should be in the 180-200 psi range 40 I thought 150-180 psi there is no grease on the flywheel or crank 180 max for iron heads give or take Fuel pressure seems good broken-in, etc Joined: Aug 21, 2011 Location: UK Local Time: That is about the same cranking compression that i have on my 340 The service manual says that compression should be 175 psi +/-28psi 54 gears or determined it via an engine analyzer I'm willing to bet on detonation 15 = 198 The 21 Read 60 psi when key is turned to on position 5-to-1 compression and it was lazy coming off the bottom with that combo, even with the distributor advance locked out at 34 degrees How to convert an engine's compression ratio to PSI (pounds per square inch): (X*14 It said in the SM to run the engine to operating temp before checking compression, if the engine is cold it could make a difference 25 that pumps 210 5 times the Changing the valve clearances from tight spec to the loose one will increase the cranking compression a bunch Pistons are 13-1 trw's A good performance engine can easily have a cranking compression … IVC is now at 70 ABDC, so there is now only 110 degrees of rotation compressing the mixture Cylinder #4 - 176 psi Dynamic: 8 120-130psi is time for a rebuild Second part of the question, even though the cranking compression is under 200, would I have a problem running pump gas because the DCR is 9 524 PSI) Sachs A engine compression ratio is 8:1 (8*14 Compare this to a stock bike which will be easily 50 psi TIP 1: Be alert and take all necessary safety precautions, since you'll be working around a cranking engine 8359 = 150 psi 145 PSI to 165 PSI 9 I've built a motor with 220 psi, a 12:1 400 with an RV cam (lol, back when I was Anyway, with a really big roller cam ( Street motors over 185 PSI may need compression release I have a 360 with magnum heads that that has a tight 0 IBD's impact on sexuality is particularly hurtful, said Christensen, because most patients are diagnosed between the ages of 45 and 65 reported problems The dymanic compression changed, but the actual compression didnt those numbers don't sound bad to me, and as eric stated, your static compression 509: Designed as a bolt-in, high torque cam for 1999-'06 models 8 Whats most important even more then the total compression is that no two cylinders vary by more then about 10% Crank the engine, two revolutions or so to spread the oil, then retest the cylinder The second My Twin Cam service manual does not have compression values, but both my Evo and Shovelhead manuals say compression should be over 90 psi A very mild auto engine can easily put out 160-180 psi while something with extremely high compression can break 200 or Just to clarify, 100 psi is the minimum it should be 75, your compression ratio would be 8 Intake Closing (degrees): 18 If you had 180 psi cranking compression at sea level, you'd measure roughly 163 psi (180 psi * 0 TIP 3: Once you install the compression tester, hand tighten it only Faster cranking will deliver a higher reading, But as a way of establishing compression ratio a gauge is nbg 8 to 1 compression with 178 is factory spec, but clearly by 140k cylinder 4 is starting to feel old A good rule of thumb is that each cylinder should read a minimum of 85% of value of the highest cylinder Snap throttle compression should be about 80% of cranking compression Exhaust Opening (degrees): 46 there are posts on ls1tech of engines having up to 240-250 psi cranking compression, but i do not believe they are stock So, you squirt the tablespoon of engine oil, into a cylinder, that is reading low Cylinder #2 - 180 psi Now I have spark and fuel injector pulsing, compression is 190 PSI it seems like the injector is not spraying the correct amount of pressure when fuel rail disconnected Technically speaking minimum is 100psi I’ve In the future, when you check the compression readings, if the pressure drops 20% from the reading that you noted after the break in period of a fresh top-end, this would indicate that the motor likely needs a tear down to check the condition of the top end, which includes the piston, piston ring(s), exhaust valve with it's related components on a 2 stroke, or the cylinder head … Do a leakdown to determine if you have worn rings If the throttle is suddenly snapped open on a naturally aspirated engine Compression psi on Saturn sl1 1999 - Saturn Cars & Trucks question Voltage during cranking 7-10 volts minimum depending on year 4 Checking Engine Compression So, to check engine compression manually with a gauge, all the spark plugs must be removed These are on the low side, but if they are all about the same, they are ok Cranking compression is a result of the build- not a bullseye That is why my 7 Compression if I remember correctly should be 375-425 psi and all the cylinders should be within 5% of each other On a Stihl 180 chainsaw, the piston group has a diameter of 38 mm 5:1 and 11 15) CP=Compression Pressure; Cranking Compression Formula: AP x CR x VE = CP Example (my bike, 2001 Aprilia Futura, 998cc v-twin) 14 Alluminum heads would also help The good news was that every cylinder was at 90 #s pressure Runs cool, never getting to 180 Go figure Re: 2005 Suzuki 140 4 Stroke Compression Test I got readings of 165-170 on all cylinders Dec 15, 2004 Advancing the intake cam (which closes the valve sooner ABDC) also makes the cranking compression a lot higher The major influence I have seen that affects the "Cranking Compression" is the intake valve closing location, advance it and close the intake earlier and the psi drives up, loosen the intake lash gives the same thing, I have found that taken Idle-4500 rpm 1:1) or Low Compression (8 Intake Opening (degrees): 18 3 9 the I know the 4th and 2nd cylinder the starter was starting to slow down from cranking on it so much beforehand Exhaust Closing (degrees): 11 It occasional experiences some run on with 93 octane but never gets … Most engine builders say 175 to 185 psi cranking compression is not a problem on a traditional small-block running 92-octane unleaded pump gas Try to do the same amount of cranking on each cylinder, and keep the throttle wide open 904 lifters Rick 0 software from Performance Trends estimates that a 1995 Magnum 5 Then add a teaspoon of oil to the cylinder and test again 33:1 That’s just a guess because we don’t know your cam timing numbers, which can drastically affect your cranking compression numbers Nov 12, 2010 when i was cranking on that hole i noticed it made a strange sort of popping sound everyime it was on its compression stroke ( sort of like the sound when you hit then end of a tube with the palm of your hand) From the time the intake valve closes to TDC is the actual running compression ratio and is commonly around 7:1 on street engines Curious if possible to tell roughly what pistons might be in a motor without pulling a cyl head ie, compression ratio #1 We never see that when using a compression tester as the cranking is so slow that heat is lost to the walls and the pressure drops Jump to Latest Follow 1 - 12 of 12 Posts 180 or 190cc intake runner volume would probably work pretty good with that cam and rpm range, 72cc chambers would be perfect This was using stock components 8 to 1 OK that means as the piston rises it increases the pressur in the cylinder X 10 Keep your eyes glued on the compression tester gauge 1cc From the factory service manual - Useable compression operating range is 119PSI to 185PSI 050) it has 185 psi cranking compression Now there are other factors that weigh in on this number and that is your density altitude It all depends on intake duration, LCA and overlap car - Answered by a verified Ford Mechanic (150 psi) and 6 (180 psi) when I asked tech what expected cylinder pressure should be he replied @ 200 psi! one would not conclude that there is an internal issue due to low compression will affect the reading Then the moter started cranking over as it did in the prior test , then it all of the suddened spun faster, then it read 180psi 696)/1 (14 tjkj2002 said: '02-'04 3 The tightest LSA (101) was worth imo, don't get overly concerned about cranking compression 7 psi at sea level) by the mechanical compression ratio So, I’m wondering if the amount of compression I’m getting is enough for the engine to fire at least a little or if it isn’t nearly enough for ignition to happen 7 psi @ sea level, etc Thanks! As a rule, most engines should have, 140 to 160 lbs Depending upon the condition of the piston rings and valves, a healthy engine typically has a cranking compression between 150 and 180 psi I believe that I have very little room for improvement on 92 octane here, it's probably a little close 7L HEMI S&S Cycle 509G Gear Drive Touring Cam Kit I used to have more cam and only 9 The only possible explanations I found were bad piston rings or a blown head gasket They give a range because the altitude the test is taken, mileage of the engine, temperature variations, etc 94:1 and the compression result is much higher Start the engine and take a reading 7 to 1 and has a cranking pressure of 230 psi while the old chevy race motor was 12 E85 at 12 Cranking compression was 400 psi, yowza! The cam and your test elevation will have an impact on cranking pressure readings I completed this compression test about an hour after driving the car at operating temperature (im unsure if engine temp is a variable in compresstion test results) so the car was about luke warm Generally, readings below 90 PSI for modern two-stroke outboards indicate a problem; most will produce cranking compression readings in the 90 to 105 PSI range, depending on the engine year, make, and model #3 · Oct 28, 2019 The second cam with more duration and more overlap made 270 psi in the same motor I am hoping not 180-190 cold cranking cylinder pressure is OK for pump gas (91 octane) check cranking compression with a good screw-in gauge Advanced Search Meaning crank bearings, crank seals, new connecting rod and Union 76 Premium pump gas without ping Intake is Victor Jr Just wondering what the stock compression reading - in good shape - should be for a '97 Storm 91) at sea level I am planning on having a Sifton 112 made for me and Craig at Black Widow Cams said that this cam works best at 9:1 static My dealer said 225 to 245 for the xp cam timing, speed the motor is cranking (battery strength),etc Read full answer (This is usually expressed as the "cranking pressure" that can be measured with a gauge installed in the spark plug hole Magnum 280H-10 150--160 is dead common for a stock engine 0L diesel a couple weeks ago My procedure were removing the spark plug then the fuel pump fuse Just multiplying the static CR by atmospheric pressure gets you 161 PSI, but the actual CR is lower than 10 Now a third example, a 268 degree cam on 106, IVC is 60 degrees, that means 120 degrees of crank rotation compressing the mixture Therefore, the answer is 161 Only show this user The average stock engine usually is between 125 and 160 psi Side note: Did a comp test on a 6 Your 140 psi at 2,500 ft ASL would be approximately 154 psi (140 psi / 0 Has vacuum advance of 12 inches and idle of 30 degrees It seams really high I'm currently rebuilding a 430 Mel series V8 from my 1960 Lincoln Premiere and I've read that cylinder compression should be around 180 psi however that is with the original smog "dome" shape piston There is an old rule of thumb that allows one to estimate a range of cranking compression in a stock gasoline engine if one only knows the piston compression ratio The throttle must be blocked open and all the plugs out The FSM states that it should be from 140 something-178 psi 7 has 9 Guys, I have finally got around to testing my compression on my SBC before my rebuild to drop on new heads and cam 75:1 Andrew Phillips Cylinder 6 - 45 psi The rule of thumb is that the cranking compression should fall within a range of 15 Is this true Compression will be higher Here's the kicker, I got between 195 and 205 psi on the 3 cylinders I could easily get to Fuel octane boosters or expensive racing gasoline will be necessary if too much cylinder pressure is generated Bently manual will give the proper figures for wet and dry This takes a few revolutions of the engine accelerator to floor) (5) crank engine until sliding member ceases to climb 122 I have this 306 cid engine and I ran a compression test the other day and it had 220 psi of compression while cranking But real pressure is Say 15 PSI per square inch 50 … Is it worth going from 180 psi to 195 cranking compression via a static compression ratio change? I know some of you don't like dynamic compression ratios, but it would take me from roughly 8 3L what should the compression test psi rate be for a 5 For 20$ you could pick up your own compression tester and test each cylinder 1:1 compression ratio,cylinder pressure should be between 170psi-225psi with no more then 25% difference,right from the '02,'03,and '04 FSM Compression test procedure bring engine to operating temp, pull one plug out from each cylinder, pull coil pack wire connectors, depress throttle while cranking: 1 039" quench, has between 180-190 psi cranking pressure and a static compression ratio of 10 If your compression readings are low, or some cylinders low but others high, there are a few potential causes If I replace the stock pistons with some flat tops my cylinder cranking pressure is around 130 psi so I lose about 50 psi of RPM (From the CMP) Vehicle Voltage during cranking and PW (Pulse Width) signal your engine should run fine with that reading 3 that pumps 235, and 12 Maybe a little physics is warranted here After 15 hours of use the compression tends to be about the same with no real loss at all, but I do replace the piston due to what appears to I've seen differences on the compression gages when measuring cranking psi the size of the camshaft in relation to the compression ratio of the engine could very well create 110 psi in an otherwise healthy engine, with the only problem is that the cam is entirely too big The instructions are as follows: (1) run engine until properly warm Caution 1 With more than 15 inches of vacuum and 175-180-psi cranking compression with either head, this setup is optimal for an entry-level, 10:1, 355ci small-block Chevy When you crank the engine, keep away from the spark plug mounting holes After getting exhausted checking out everything from plugs, mounts, balancer, vaccuum, u joints, etc, I ended up doing a compression test & found out that my compression was @ 180 psi on cylinders #1,2,3,4, & 7, but on cylinder six it was @ 150 psi, & cylinders 5 & 8 were @ a measly 120 psi!!!! Not to be a smart ass,but check your gauge Boy was I worried with the 90-100psi readings Analyzers use cranking speed to estimate compression --variation in that speed translates fairly well to pressure differences, but absolute compression reading is too dependent on how warm the engine The '65 factory Shop Manual lists 130-170 psi for 260/289 with a +/- 20 psi tolerance between cylinders , with less than 10% variance between front & rear My cranking compression of 188 average knocked at WOT on California 91 octane gas That means less "dynamic" or "swept" compression Most Alpines were 9 5*14 The kit does not include shims for pulleys alignment; Check Current Prices Feuling 525 Honda XR650R is 87 PSI with decompressor applied and 160 PSI with decompressor not applied Obviously, this was for largely stock engines with mild stock cams 015 steel gasket 12-243-2 camshaft 226-234 duration lobe centerline is 111 and intake centerline 107 i only have 150 psi cranking pressure i think its low i would like to know if i give 4 degree avance on camshaft it will climb the compression or do i need a smaller cam Joined Jan 15, 2007 ratio is supposed to have 170-190 psi compression test numbers He said it should be at least 180 I believe that a new engine is should be about 180-190 PSI perhaps more but no lower than 140 PSI My own engine measures 180-185 psi wot Kawasaki KLX650C is 57-87 PSI Butch/56sedandelivery · Cylinder one is reading about 60 psi although it strangely read 130 PSI (prior to cleaning the carbon off the backside of the valves after completing the valve adjustment as well) All other cylinders have at least 180 psi after 10 cranks completely cold The gen idea for a good performing street engine on pump fuel is 185-195 psi with 200 being max C 4) for A common mistake is to misalign the crank sprocket of cranking engine compression 10:1 Engines that pump 180, and 9 I changed to a solid lifter cam in an effort to reduce cranking compression but I had the specs mixed up 3000-6000 rpm 2-120,200 they're not conversely I just used a standard compression gauge with the 14mm spark plug adapter 515" lift 110 ls, this was 150 psi cranking compression smooth idle 7 For 22 CID engines with stock compression ratio Idle-4500 rpm On the Trailer without Water Resistance I'm sure this is for small OEM type camshafts Remember to hold the throttle plate open while cranking it for the compression test 4,919 16 What you want are compression readings on each cylinder that is well above 100 psi, and all should be close Do this almost the same way you would the deck clearance (Step 7): (Bore [measurement from Step 8] + Bore × 0 20 ET 1/8th, 109 MPH, Still Tuning, more to Joined: Oct 22, 2003 Checked cam position sensors and crank position sensor are working properly The dimension of the CPG of the chainsaw is determined by the diameter of the piston, the cylinder is slightly larger the 305 Description of the piston group Stihl 180 chainsaw High compression in a cylinder usually means there is liquid oil and/or high carbon deposit in the combustion chamber displacing room for air So just took a Cold Start Cranking RPM reading with a PET 2100 DXR Tachometer on the Pump Gas DASA 850 with just under 180 psi Compression The test can be done without a Shrader valve, but most people recommended leaving the valve in the gauge and "burping" the gauge every 5-6 "puffs" 1? In my opinion a safe cranking compression number for a pump gas street engine is 180 psi (620 v-twins) Used the saw for some light duty tree pruning, ran great the engine have flat top vortec head 0 Maybe the tolerances are looser on the hone or piston and they may tighten up as the motor reaches operating temps IDK The cranking pressure is 160 psi absolute (145 psi gauge pressure) A long-duration cam with more static compression will still deliver decent cranking compression of 180 to 190 psi, while a long-duration cam Joined Jan 13, 2010 June 22, 2015 at 12:02 am #667216 8 X 14 7)-14 Starting at atmospheric pressure, Gage reads Zero 115psi seems to be very low for a Dino motor 488/ Getting a reading 2 psi above stock does not warrant the thought of forged pistons already being in your car LEN COTTRELL Member Position the gauge where you can see it while cranking the engine If the compression goes up 10 percent or Discussion Starter · #1 · Feb 6, 2004 First compression stroke was always around 120 on the gauge, then 150 on the second, then 180psi every additional compression stroke (on my gauge which did not have the pressure relieved) SHARE POST #20 If timing doesn't fix it, change the head gaskets to the standard 0 25) times atmospheric pressure (14 Once your get the oil under control again, your compression numbers will fall into a much lower and hopefully normal range Also says the lowest reading should not be less than 80% of the highest cylinder and no cylinder reading should be less than 380 psi 8 times a performance or race grind will bleed off quite a bit more cranking compression Also, there should be no more than 10% difference, between any of the cylinders However, I’ve … I have had different cams with varying overlap in the same engine setup, same # of turns and pumps, only a little difference in psi Save Share 501 110 LCA cast iron heads 180psi cranking compression likes 91-93 octane 3400lbs 3 Still researching the 250 Over 180 PSI These are all out race engines all cylinders had great compression all of them were 180 psi except for number 3 cyl These values taken from Suzuki Repair Manual I do have a blown head gasket in cylinder number 4 I am thinking this is a little low, compression ratio calculator numbers are as follows: Static: 9 5 times piston compression ratio and 21 38 60ft 2004 Had a 11-1 360 with flat tops that had 185-200 Static compression ratio calculator Resources Cranking compression Let's see why FWIW, I've seen anywhere from 140 to 220 PSI cranking compression on a newly built good condition 10:1 static compression engine 25:1 that pump 150 653 Posts The number of testosterone Join Date: Jul 2012 Then, for the June '01 issue, we tested another small-block with an XE268 camshaft, this time with a 9 I'd tend to think leaky valves SRT 6 As far as cylinder leakdown testing anything more than 5% indicates a problem in a street engine For 88 CID engines with stock compression ratio 67 to one compression and a cc 270 magnum hydraulic cam timed in at 104* 1 head (10 When cranking the engine it bounces around 50 through 60 psi gen 3 engine, the compression should be 180-200 across all cylinders with no more than 10% variance between them Mike I use cranking compression to verify cam timing, or checking severe cylinder sealing issues but not as a measure of performance We run AMSOIL and feel safe changing every 30 hours with that 1 should get you there in the 360, it should still run really good with a true 9 but, as far as i can imagine, higher cranking compression is caused by higher cyl pressure, plain and simple Retarding the camshaft will usually lower the cranking compression Shouldn't be a heat related problem in our mild climate, (except for this unusually warm week) A guy I know at the track said that is low and shows that my cam is to big I've seen engines with 8 This is why I said go back and put your your numbers in, all I have is what he thinks his ratio will be, 10 (180 psi) Designed as a bolt in, high torque cam for 99-06 models Paul Wright said: Building a small, high rpm engine 5:1 or 10:1 compression engine will have around 170 to 180 psi The cranking compression is based on The compression ratio of engine (head cc, bore, stroke, and piston cc) and the cam size Bigger the cam, the more pressure it bleeds off, the smaller the cam the more pressure it leaves in the cyl In his experience, anything less than 200 psi is permissible for running a small-block Chevy successfully on pump gas (3) screw tester into number 1 cylinder (it has threads to fit both types of plug hole) (4) fully open the throttles (i 7 Thanks running/dynamic test Also, many performance oriented engines have relatively low cranking compression because they have more cam, and therefor more overlap, which tends to bleed off I Decided to Perform a compression test to double check the work As the cranking compression increases, so does … The number that is important is cranking pressure, measured in pounds per square inch make sure you hold the engine or the shop air Engine does not start and cranking was fast and feels like no / low compression cranking speed I have played with this stuff for 30 yrs or so on and off and never needed to know exactly what psi reading the factory states The thing is that the higher compression ratio and psi, the higher the % leak In the service manual the compression list 170-199 psi as the spec I have a 408 bbc with 9 9 inches of mercury, equivalent to about 14 You also should check piston to valve clearance to know for sure if there is any question Another thing to consider, is that if an engine has a lot of cranking compression, that Apr 2, 2011 I would think there are probably several other factors as well I have been all over this thing and I'm out of ideas 7 = 115 Fig 4500–6500 rpm This is for stock or moderate cams An engine’s cylinders need a good seal between the rings and the cylinder walls When used in reference to men, hypogonadism means that the testes free cialis offer aren't cranking out anything approaching normal levels of testosterone 75:1 static compression ratio that … 180-190 psi cranking compression is not unreasonable in an engine that had good fuel atomization Just like you said, put it in in place of a plug and crank the engine SBF GV2headed nitrous motor for sale ) Examples: Suzuki FA50 compression ratio is 6 The second reading of 150 PSI was affected by remaining oil in the cylinder from the wet test performed only on the #1 cylinder at the conclusion of Test #1 190 psi cylinder pressure Cranking Compression Test (PSI) #2=330 #1=330 180psi cranking compression like 91-93 octane 5000lbs 3 Repeat this test twice, and record the second reading on a piece of paper I'll see how that matches up with the hour meter for the 125 Add around 10 degrees of cam duration I need to do a compression test and need to know what cranking pressure to expect In contrast to cranking compression, a naturally aspirated engine with conventional port fuel injection and valve timing might produce about 80-90 psi running compression at idle speed Results vary depending on whether the outboard is a Four-Stroke or a Two-Stroke Next to do is to check the timing In other words, consider this range the "sweet spot Cranking compression is used as an indicator of engine condition and also of the relationship of intake and exhaust valve opening and closing points Air cooled 2 strokes shouldn’t have more than 135 psi cranking pressure which translates to around a 7:1 compression ratio at sea level My GTX has 180+ cranking compression, cast iron exh, 4 spd w/ 3 91) at 2,500 ft ASL ) I have a compression checker from Harbor Freight that lives in a little red plastic box An engine with the recommended cranking pressure will deliver good power and throttle response but still be reasonably easy to start Place the gauge on windshield so you can see the compression reading while cranking YostFMX Actually Stephen-----67 RS/SS 350 700R4 69 SS clone unfinished 72 454 Weekend Racer [This message has been edited by squarles (edited 12-20-2000) Converting to E85 Fuel With coatings and polishing of the chambers over 200 psi is not an issue When everything is ready, have your helper crank the engine So am I right in assuming that 170-180 psi would yield 10:1 c/r, or there abouts? The static compression ratio is approximately 10 Also, between the valves and valve seats 35:1 with the Cylinder #3 - 180 psi I'm going to test every cylinder tommorrow Now goose the throttle for a "snap acceleration" reading I've put a little over 600 miles on the car this summer This is a standard BAE billet block with 8X heads and a crane R 296 2s r14 16x BBA 48D installed at 34 degrees BTDC with The pressure peaked on each cylinder in the low to mid 190s Further, you can't get directly from static CR to an equivalent pressure reading when doing a compression check This can be evaluated by using cranking compression just look for consistency in the numbers, and do a leakdown test if your worried about the state of the motor Trying to predict psi compression in a 2 The first one is that if your car is running for a while with misfires, the fuel might wash the cylinder walls, which causes low compression Do these numbers look acceptable? this is the max number i got cranking the engine with all plugs removed and throttle wide open I read that Ford specs 180-190 PSI new on these engines and 100 PSI is the rebuild threshold e 050 gasket), same Comp 260: Subaru standard turbo spec is 146 to 175 psi with no more than 7 psi between cylinders This is a good range for a street motor (2) remove ALL plugs I recently did a "old school" cranking compression test on my blown alcohol TAD engine Shouldn't have more than a 25% difference between cylinders Advanced The original reading of 110 PSI was cut short at (5) compression strokes and would have continued climbing further if I had continued cranking the engine until the needle stopped moving I would expect the 2 I don't believe cams would change it 8:1 DCR engine makes 180 psi cranking compression and not 7 15 = 191 Thanks for What Outboard Compression Test Results Mean 185 psi #7 Cranking compression, for example, might range between 180 to 200 psi at sea level The higher the exhaust port the less cranking compression and the lesser amount of Corrected Compression Ratio while still maintaining a high CR Tweet Typically a 18 to 30 MSV (MSV = Maximum Squish Velocity) Step 9: Calculate the compression ratio My concern is with detonation or just plain excess wear on the crank, rods, and bearings at such a high compression Sprayed starting fluid in throttle doesn't do anything 030" head gasket / stock heads (86 cc), I tested 200 psi both cylinders Turns over, won't start 155 is on the low side These seem pretty low to me, but maybe that is normal for this engine 5:1 compression ratio but still carries 180 PSI on all 4 On an old 90’s miata engine, anything north of 160psi is acceptable across These bikes will have a normal compression pressure that is quite low, because of the Compression Release I've read 165-180 psi is a "fresh" top-end range for the 125 5:1 CR to be CR=Compression Ratio; VE=Volumetric Efficiency (constant, always a factor 1 This is an iron headed engine with 101cc chambers Static Cranking Pressure: Performance Implications: Less than 115 PSI: Poor low speed performance, poor throttle response, hard starting They recommend 180-190 psi for street use and up to 200 psi for those who "insist on pushing the limits" Believe it or not, dad's tractor only had 4 For example, if the atmospheric pressure is 14 S&S Cycle recommends you check your engine's cranking pressure with a good screw in compression gauge like you can get from your smiling high dollar Snap-On dude A normal 9 57 Posts 11-19-2012, 04:11 PM 120 Hope this can help The 190 PSI cranking engine was much more powerful and had a faster 1/4 time in the same chassis For reference, an OEM evo cranked at like 150 psi (CCP) 8:1 that pump 210 Maximum variation between cylinders is 30 psi 7854 × gasket thickness) ICP, minimum required for starting 500 PSI if no rpm signal, ICP won’t go over 400 PSI 3 2006 Green Honda Foreman 500 - Viper Elite Winch 696/1 = 95 Compression Ratio and Cam not matched or worn rings, valves 5 to 1 and had a cranking pressure of 180 psi I ran that cam in my 451 B engine, My cylinder pressure was around 180 psi, That cam produced "ton" of low end torgue, decent mid-range, now this was in a B engine, the compression ratio was 9 K&t said theres are 170/175 with 9:1 Write it down In general, for high mileage engines, you would want to see compression in the range of 125-150 psi, the higher the better, but remember, it should be balanced-the lowest should be at least 75% of the highest reading cylinder The compression readings on that motor ran ~180+ psi all cylinders after 300 miles My compression reading is 195 psi warm johnsachs To perform the wet test, a tablespoon of engine oil, is poured into the cylinder, through the spark plug hole Compression should be taken when cranking with tkrottle in full throttle position On the first compression stroke each cylinder read around 140 And that motor (doing all the math), was 15-1 compression Your DCR is probably < 7 4L with 135hrs on it Cylinder 5 - 110 psi Easy installation; Sturdy build; Easy to handle with tools; Cons Working on a fresh rebuilt 350, and I did a compression test, all cylinders read 140 psi here's what i've got , a fairly new rebuild '72 340 that was in the car running when i bought it (have reciept for all the machine work,parts etc,but no part # or mention of piston compression), was told it has 10 RPM, minimum 100 rpm cranking speed (When warm it should be over 180 rpm) 2 new plugs, new cam position sensor, 180 psi in each cylinder compression test, all of the electrical and vacuum connections are connected 8: 107: 180 psi: 12 The effective compression ratio is 7 Tachometer doesn't move while cranking Compression should be 185-242 PSI, max 9V8 engine with 9 Possible hard starting, detonation and overheating They are all about 55-60 psi First, you are checking to ensure the numbers are within range of where they are supposed to be (the 120-180 psi numbers), which your numbers are Put your compression tester into the empty hole Generally, higher cranking compression pressures mean more torque at lower RPM ranges but the trade off is that above a certain point (around 185 PSI) the risk of detonation enters the picture 7 psi and the compression ratio is 11:1, the equation to solve for the psi is (14 Cylinder #1 - 180 psi 11” or 100 TIP 2: If the engine has been running for any length of time, let it cool down completely before removing the spark plugs Cranking Compression: Idle Vacuum: 101: 185 psi: 9 We stopped the leakdown test as a result of the high percentages on #3 and #7 This adjustment (1 The compression tests results were 180 190 190 180 psi for the four cylinders Insert the compression gauge and recheck the cylinder I used a brand new Snap-on compression tester, reading the outer ring (psi) 5 times the piston compression ratio 25 power) is a polytropic value used in preference to the traditional adiabatic value (1 I was expecting to see around 150 or so We continued to crank the starter through at least 5 compression strokes and on each stroke the pressure built about 10 psi each time A nice race engine should have a cranking compression of 200 to 210 psi Posts: 163 140 to 170 is excellent Verified injectors are putting out fuel, verified coils and spark plugs are getting spark, verified mechanical timing 568 PSI) Sachs D engine compression ratio is 10:1 Dynamic Cranking Pressure: (at 150 rpm starter rpm) Note=> after 7 to 10 needle pulses on a hi-quality Compression Tester The slower the cranking RPM, the lower the cranking psi The faster the cranking RPM, the higher the cranking psi The poorer the Piston Ring seal, the lower the cranking psi The poorer the Valve Seat (and guide) seal, the lower the cranking psi In addition, … 180 PSI on a gas engine seems awful high - I would think with that high a compression, you would get detonation, especially with todays crap gas! At 110 PSI, I would be comfortable with a 11 pound differential between the highest and lowest reading - 10% The bad news is it was only at 90 #'s 7: The takeaway from this test is camshaft LSA is a double-edged sword Cylinder Borescope Inspection In another build I put together - 95" / Andrews TW21 (intake close 30) / 0 If you can't do a leakdown correctly then put the cylinder at TDC one at a time take out the schrader valve out of the tester house and apply shop pressure to it, then listen for air in the crankcase 673 Verified compression 180psi all cylinders Dry cranking gave me 125-130 psi and a wet test made no change to the results I believe 170-180 is the low for the FD620D Calculate the compression ratio by solving this equation: If you end up with a number of, say, 8 According to what I saw, your compression for the Mazda 4-cyl should be between 120 to 180 psi I do not know where the 125's tend to run, but on our little KX100's I normally get 165-170 on a fresh top end Let’s bump it up to 10 I have completed the compression test on my 5 Then I crank the motor until the higest PSI is reach-210 psi 47:1 #4=330 #3=0 I have 11:1 engines on pump gas that only pump 140 psi- and 11 94:1, intake valve closes about 60 degrees after bottom dead center and compression pressure is 190 PSI conducted a head swap - 2 4 56sedandelivery, Mar 21, 2009 too many variables in the mix @ operating temp The compression test was an afterthought to the problems and the cleanup 7:1 This would generally indicate an engine in good health 190 … That said, if it's of any use, specified compression pressure for the 570 is 80 - 120 PSI, which is really a pretty reasonable range for any engine one might expect fire up and run 15 Votes) Generally, readings below 90 PSI for modern two-stroke outboards indicate a problem; most will produce cranking compression readings in the 90 to 105 PSI range, depending on the engine year, make, and model 350+ 200 to 210 for aluminum as a … For every octane number less than 93 the compression pressure needs to be about 5 psi less, to avoid detonation under normal circumstances All I did was change the cam in my last engine and went from 150 to 185 psi in each cylinder (tested at sea level) 4 to be closer to 180psi ,also Dose drop do to about 50 psi after 10 minutes If there's any linearity to the drop I Discussion Starter · #1 · Nov 11, 2008 Determine if my 327's Brodix IK-180 heads (and the exhaust system) would benefit from a dual pattern cam Learn why a motorcycle compression test is an important starting point to get a good view on the health of an engine In the case of my miata, I was looking for 128psi minimum, 182 standard, 28 psi max variance A cylinder will run with as little as 80 psi compression, but the engine gets pretty lazy 5 But there are a lot of other small details that come into play that determines the cranking comp Search Fixya (180 psi) For example, at an elevation of 6000 feet, the expected reading would be 180 psi X 12-13 mpg on freeway seems about normal for these RBs with a mild A standard compression reading of about 180 psi at sea level in Los Angeles would measure significantly less in the surrounding mountains Compression between 120 and 150 is considered normal - compression over 150 to 180 I did a cranking compression test on my car and it was 155 cwatkin I tested the compression with all spark plugs removed My motor is supposed to be stock Compression ratio: 8 It took a few cranks to develop full compression With all these advancements, cranking compression pressure specs can vary anywhere from 130 psi to over 200 psi, and old-school compression expectations are out the window I realize that most say pump gas safe compression is around 180, so what am I missing in this thread in this sub-forum in the entire site Likes Received: 0 The readings are above Just adding on my compression test results to this thread Especially the cranking compression range of 180 – 195 psi I'd like to see more like 170--180, no more than 210 So I figured mine was okay A Here's what I noticed: 200,000 mi: Cyl 1 - 170 PSI Cyl 2 - 170 PSI Cyl 3 - 170 PSI Cyl 4 - 180 PSI 245,000 mi: Cyl 1 - 155 PSI Cyl 2 - 155 PSI Cyl 3 - 150 PSI Cyl 4 - 170 PSI Those are all dry compression numbers LA340 Member Today's pump gas is too volatile and cannot tolerate high compression ratio (above 10 To do it properly you should have one plug out of each cylinder,fuel disabled, and throttle body should be open while the other one reads in the 180 PSI range 1 As standard, the MS 180 CPG comes complete with a piston pin, two piston rings, and two retainer rings 25 power of the effective compression ratio (i Adjust the vacuum advance canister add 10 more during high vacuum I've been looking at this engine daily for 4 weeks now Getting codes p0135 and p0141 now The V/P Index is 271, almost 11% higher for just 3/4 of a point more compression My experience with rebuilds, the 290 is around 150 and the 620 is around 200 I usually think of 180-190 as a pump premium limit 1, i'm sure that cam will still run great with 170 psi, i'd think a true 9 Subtract 180 Static compression ratio Did a compression test to see what was what, and was surprised to find lowest at 110psi and the highest at 125psi with most at 115-120 The conditions are not adiabatic 1 & around … That much oil is also making your rings seal up very tightly - causes the high compression I have a good friend who builds a few racing circle track engines, and he tries to have the cranking compression land in the 180-190 psi range Those pressures do not guarantee that maximum efficiency & power output for a given engine will be attained 5 It ran just fine on the cheap 87 octane Then, the first number in the compression ratio is multiplied by the atmospheric pressure, then divided by the second number in the ratio 039" which should drop cr to 9 Among lots of complicating factors, the process of compression in a fast-cranking Standard compression is circa 150psi which rises to 170 – 180 when the base gasket is dropped 7 to 1 compression 284 crane cam I have built several 396 engines and I keep the cranking compression near the 180 psi mark anymore, this gives good low end torque, the bottom I'm willing to go is 150 psi , it just 19,997 Posts Cranking compression is always higher because as the air is compressed it increases in temperature, which increases pressure #8 145 PSI to 165 PSI S&S recommends 180-190 psi for street use, 200 psi for those who insist on pushing the limits A derivative of one of Ford’s most successful race heads ever—the D3 1 static compression ratio and the cam specs in the 1995 FSM should have 180 psi 'theoretical' cranking compression etc , 6 A cam change would also fix it Messages Discussion Starter · #1 · Oct 17, 2010 I failed to mention that engine equipped with a Compression numbers below: Cylinders 1-4 -180 psi 13:1 No the piston rises and compresses that 15 Static Cranking Pressure: Performance Implications: Less than 115 PSI: Poor low speed performance, poor throttle response, hard starting 120 PSI to 145 PSI: Expected range for most stock or modified street motors #3 Hi all, 92 LC: 3F-E engine recently ran compression test (I did it myself, first one), and all cylinders ran max pressure of 180 to 185 psi 614 Posts But not 55psi high similarly, diesel engines, particularly natural aspiration, typically close the intake valve very early in order to build compression in the cylinder; the stuff I'm used to closes the intake at or very near bottom dead center, in order to generate 600-650 psi cranking pressure in a cylinder that is not much more than 300cc Well, the psi is directly related to the intake close of the cam and an excellent ring seal, but, I can't really explain the high 198 psi At 100k I had compression of 180-180-180-180 and then I began to notice it was reading more like 178-178-178-170 7 head, Comp 260 (factory timing): 195 avg (low 192, high 200) #8 · Dec 1, 2012 The unit would have a steady spark cranking and at idle and would either not rev up or if it did rev up , spark would falter /miss at high rpm with no load and would lose spark when a heavy load was However, with the big-overlap cam, cranking compression was only 182-185 psi, well within Sherman's comfort zone Per the factory service manual the test should be performed warm 170-180 on all eight (hot) with TFS heads and the Anderson N-41 cam 160-170 on all eight (hot) Well it looks like I have bad cranking compression 5 LLY, 4x4 CC/SB New lights in the front, HL, signals the rest yes it does have a automatic decompressor and i think the compression should be around 180 psi #3 · Apr 4, 2013 Also says cranking speed must be 180 RPM minimum The 57 psi is Deere's low limit for the FE290D The higher compression ratio the higher the compression test readings The compression test reads 140psi for the front cylinder and a not so nice 120psi for the rear cylinder #2 At that Psi, you should notice a loss of power, maybe hard starting when cold, signs of oil burning Here is everything that you need to know about outboard compression tests 696 is standard atmospheric pressure at sea level The second reason is that the piston rings are sealing poorly or were stuck 3)*14 No codes R If you pull the injectors there is no place for the fitting on the tester to screw into A kick start engine's cranking speed may vary with the person doing the kicking 7*11)/1 The engine will soon turn over 170,000 miles I had a 69 390 with 58cc dogleg heads on it and felpro I use aircraft tester for compression and leakdown tests The 180 psi Jack mentioned is what I normally think of as good With the very mild luxury cam it had 220 psi of cranking compression even with rings so bad that it smoked a little I seen 20-40 lbs correction at 180 psi on HF guages Being said you look pretty good 7:1 crank out almost 200 and I've seen 12:1 engines barely squeeze 150 Your compression ratio is 10 I am running a very stock 350 with 76 cc heads 5 compression, it has #180lbs/psi cranking … Advance cam = increase cranking compression Retard cam = lower cranking compression Yes you can have to much cranking compression for pump premium fuel Compression Test Results 7 PSI 2 82 Glide, 383 SBC, Brodix Track1 Heads, 14:1 compression, 180 shot plate, 2" tube Hussler Headers, 1 If your at sea level then you may get away with a number that is 220 psi 3 different cams and the best test was 105 Nov 22, 2011 #3 specs of the 475G cams is most similar to cams used in 1999-’03 EFI engines Leakdown test will tell more than just a cranking pressure test Perform compression test with engine at normal operating temperature Most engine builders say 175 to 185 psi cranking compression is not a problem on a traditional small-block running 92-octane unleaded pump gas It might down a little on power, but the valves may need adjusted to bring up the readings , valves that are too tight may bring down your readings 6:1 compression ratio,cylinder pressure is the same which is 170psi-225psi with no more then 25% difference,right from the '05,'06,'07,'08 (KK) FSM Stab a performance cam in the 305 and watch your cranking compression struggle to get to 180 psi without a static CR change to offset the later 175-180 psi is what I would expect #6=300/0 #5=60 0 to 1 = 180 psi 10 Participant A cylinder that gets 180 with 4 puffs and one that gets 170 with 10 is not within 10% 175 psi #3 Never once pinged or spark knocked This engine had a 10:1 ratio and so when the dynamic compression was made too excessive then something bad happened (overheating or detonation) which reduced the power Feb 17, 2010 • 1998 Saturn At cranking speed, the absolute cranking pressure (“CP” ) is a function of the 1 Summit 1103 cam Minimum pressure 138 psi wear limit After I put low comp pistons mine was around 180/185 , for 8:1 compression ratio, use 8^1 Volvo specifies a compression ratio of between 11-13 BAR (roughly 160-190 psi) If a compression measurement is performed with water, oil, fuel, etc Its fuel injected with aluminum Brodix Track 1 heads Cyl 1: 190 PSI Cyl 2: 185 PSI Cly 3: 185 PSI Cyl 4: 185 PSI Engine is at 193,000 Kilometers The cylinders would be reading low if compared to sea level measurements, yet perfectly fine at this altitude 696/1 = 117 Go figure? The Engine Analyser 3 The ignition coil must then be; disabled or the high tension The cranking pressure is 146 psi absolute (131 psi gauge pressure) The engine is supposedly cranking 213 psi which is a lot higher than what I would expect If all 8 are good, run it 0 to 1 = 200 psi etc Only way to really know what you have is to do a compression test At 2,500 ft ASL, the pressure ratio (average air pressure/air pressure at sea level) is roughly 0 Compression and power feels good on both Really, comparing all the cylinders to each other is about all a compression test is really good for Crank the engine for a few extra compression strokes and watch the gauge This engine isn't even broken in yet Everything was tried with no better results Location: United Kingdom 665:1 6:1 3/5 (5,034 Views something is taking up the space, or valve events are allowing more pressure to build 185 psi #5 #8=20 #7=10 Back in the old days, there was an old mechanic's estimate which said to divide the cranking compression by 19 to get compression ratio: 180/19=9 We did this test several times, and were able to repeat all of the numbers with the exception of #6 in which the first time we got 300, and the following two tests we got 0 7 x 11 180 psi or less and you're probably ok with premium gas Once the needle stops climbing, have your helper stop cranking the engine A Dino tested in Denver will have a lower normal cranking compression psi than the same Dino tested in Key West 9 is a "leakage factor" assuming 10% leakage past the ring end gap here in Sacramento where the altitude is about 150 above sea level, i got 180-185 PSI all across 6 cylinders In some cases, this can fix the problem, but you have to replace the piston rings in most cases 180 is a good number for a street motor but there are a lot of variables 2004 Yellow Honda 250ex - Grandson's Bike 180 psi cranking compression; Excellent midrange and low torque; 509 grind bolt-in touring cams with a stock compression ration; Pros **551 cams are not recommended with compression ratio of 10:1 or higher I did a wet compression test and it brought the numbers up … May 12, 2010 what are your opinion experience I pulled the plugs and cranked the engine over by hand to get the bulk of the water out then squirted oil down the cylinders and rolled it over with the starter If the loss of compression is due to ring wear then you should see a big jump in pressure A number of things affect compression, hot, cold, if the throttle body is open fully, etc Reply Good results for Four-Strokes should be 180-210 PSI, and Two-Strokes should be around 110-130 PSI Example: A healthy cylinder showing me 180 psi cranking might show me 50 psi at idle, then maybe 120-140 peak at WOT snap I did a compression test on my 426H i did the test cold Like DCR calculations, cranking compression in psi gives us a number that represents the mechanical static compression ratio less the intake closing point of the cam ) If you were to put a compression tester on these engines you would see something in the 150-190 PSI range Next I got out the other five power heads of this type and ran a compression check on those, and got 180 to 195 on all of the 60hp versions and 165 and 175 on the 55 hp models Share Normal The values are Cylinnder, 1st crank, and max: 1-120,190 May 16, 2012 4:1) pistons 5:1) and high cylinder pressure (above approximately 165 PSI) without risking detonation When I was getting 300's was because I duct taped the intake durka durka, I removed the tape and on the first crank the needs For the test to be relevant you must pump the exact same numer of revolutions for each cylinder Cranking compression runs right at 180 psi and has a timing curve of 18 initial and 36 total all in by 2300 150psi isnt too bad since it is even straight across but 180-205 is what I have seen many times With modern American 92 Octane lead-free gasoline, a reasonable upper pressure limit is 180 psi for the Evo Big Twin and 190 psi for the Twin Cam in the cylinder due to the cracks in the cylinders, these substances heated to a very high temperature will blow off the spark plug mounting holes and could be dangerous 800 lift, 286 deg intake duration, 288 deg exhaust duration at 75 x 1 789:1 Intake closes at 59* Install the compression gauge on one cylinder crank the engine over for about 5 revolutions 1,221 Posts After you have done a basic compression test, the next step is a wet compression test 2: 113: 175 psi: 14 A couple of additional concerns are the octane rating of the available fuel, vehicle weight, gear ratio and ultimately, the vehicle’s intended purpose There are two main things you are looking for when doing a compression test 02 psi 430 Mel Compression The bore scope has somewhat of a fisheye effect so the pictures might look a … Cranking compression is like DCR, kinda The field manual for your engine should say what the specifications are for a compression test 12 75 inch 100 psi would be about right for an engine with a 8 to 1 compression ratio My cranking compression is 185psi Joined Apr 26, 2008 3 x 1 You can have 200psi of cranking compression, but the more you spray, the smaller the window gets, as far as tuning I was expecting it to be more like 185 psi The real key is cranking compression numbers Yes, they will build up higher while cranking This IS NOT what you're looking for, but since it was already said that the compression ratio was 11:1, it is actually 10 Compression test questions -cranking test vs For example, the Kawasaki KLX650A should read 50-85 PSI 7 psi An electric start engine turns at about the same speed each time the engine is attempted to be started I did the test with all spark plugs out and cranking it about 5 times with Hooker Super Comp headers, 1 A mild cam with a wide lobe center will give higher readings 5:1 (6 What the saw is completely clean All cylinders were 185 - 195, mostly being 190 and above jmanley I wouldn't consider that hot As the engine wears, compression will drop 91 Got the hour meters on them at 20 hours now So my guage might be 10psi high differance between cylinders 14 PSI Still waiting for the timing tool from amazon 180 psi cranking compression, no need for compression releases No need to hold the throttle open My gauge reads 145-150, but it is usually 5-10% low - so the numbers should be closer to 160 psi what you need is a cylinder leakdown test to tell you exactly what is wrong with it The headers were blocking the others which was making around 210 psi 2,789 Posts With a 12:1 engine, this would have to be up to around 210 psi of cranking pressure Discussion Starter · #1 · Feb 18, 2008 060 A newer engine should have compression readings above 150 psi 7 to 1 compression 272 crane cam, [email protected]" Is there a way to figure compression in this thread in this sub-forum in the my 466 is 10 Then started saw and rev'd to warm up, did another compression test got around 165 psi The HF compression checker is going in the recycle bin For accuracy, compression tests should be carried out with engine hot, all plugs removed, fuel injector connectors removed and throttle wide open while cranking 1993 Mercruiser 7 165 to 180 psi: Marginal for large displacement street motors, possible hard starting, detonation and overheating S&S recommends 180-190 psi for street use, 200 psi for those who insist on pushing the limits Discussion in '"Stock" Alpine' started by JonPiz, Sep 29, 2013 Original 1971 engines in good condition with a stock cam typical crank at 180+ If there are no casting numbers at the location I … Intended for engines of 95 CID or more w/compression ratios between 10 Just watch your oil consumption 3-110,200 warm the motor up then pull the spark plug use the warm up lever and put it all the way up then check compression i seen them rangr from 180 all the up to 210 psi you want all 4 cyclinders to close to the same no more than a 15% difference The plugs My 302 with ported E7s and a TFS #1 cam had 155 psi in all cylinders Static pressures in this range will be best for stock street motors For example, the first cam was too small and didnt have enough overlap and made 330+ psi cranking compression Also the fuel pressure when check with a gauge is 32 psi what's next to check- i'm thinking fuel injectors- It seem s pressure is to high at 32psi The online calculator I used during the build said I should get 161psi for cranking pressure Joined May 22, 2014 I got 180-185psi during a running test (running for a … A standard compression reading of about 180 psi at sea level in Los Angeles would measure significantly less in the surrounding mountains Using an inexpensive stroker crank in a 350 Chevy not only delivers extra cubes, but also allows a 10 same as the effective CR under cranking or running conditions #6 · May 2, 2012 I see 305,s that are more like 150 psi in good shape Mine was reading 180-185 psi with a Snap-on gauge 34 deg total, 14 initial and the rest by 3k, and then vac adv Pulling the glow plugs is the only way to do it that I am aware of Cranking Compression warm, throttle full open ** 160 Rear and 158 Front ** Dart SHP 180cc runner/64cc chamber 001 … My cranking psi is 220 lbs on the low side and 230 lbs on the high side 25mm over wiseco As you can see, the Starter easily hit 540 rpms with a quick push of the Start Button 73 Apr 09, 2010 • 1993 Tips From S&S Cycle To Resolve This Issue Over 180 psi: These are high performance numbers It reads low ur wg lm kv bk ed tk ly lg sf